Learn to Ice Climb This Winter in the Canadian Rockies

If you’ve ever looked at a glistening frozen waterfall and thought ‘I want to climb that,’ then Canmore is your destination to try it out.

The town is a magnet for all kinds of outdoor winter pursuits – and for good reason. Set amid the beautiful Canadian Rockies, it provides outdoor enthusiasts with so many opportunities to try new winter activities.

One of the most popular and fastest growing sports is ice climbing. It’s an exhilarating activity that puts you right in the midst of the mountains. In a day or two, ascending a shimmering frozen waterfall can be checked off your bucket list.

Canmore, about 100 km (60 mi) from the City of Calgary, is rated one of the top 10 spots in the world to ice climb. Thanks to a long winter season – November to April – the ice has a reputation for being super reliable. Ice climbers here typically get 150 to 200 days a year to pursue their passion.

So, if you’re game to try it, this is how to get started. Word to the wise: this is not the kind of activity you can jump into without experience. But there are a variety of certified outfitters in the Canmore and Banff area who can get you geared up and learning the ropes in just a couple of days.

Ask Will Gadd, a veteran ice climbing icon and guide with over 35 years of experience. The Canmore local says ice climbing is surprising accessible. He should know because he’s taught the sport to all ages and abilities, including his own children when they were 10.

Get ready to ice climb

It’s not the skill of ice climbing that holds people back, Gadd says. It’s their ability to manage the cold. But that is easily handled by wearing the proper layers of clothing, allowing you to enjoy the experience and move freely. Bulky clothing will weigh your movements down or make you overheat.

Respect for the sport and building your skills slowly is important, says Sara Hueniken, Gadd’s climbing partner and an instructor for more than 15 years. Taking a course with an experienced climber is the best way to learn, she adds.

“It is so empowering when you realize that you can climb up a frozen waterfall under your own strength and skills,” she says.

What to expect during a basic ice climbing course

• A basic Level 1 course usually runs over two days. But some offer half- or one-day sessions.
• Most outfitters will provide the required technical gear (crampons, helmet, ice pick, harness, rope, ice screws).
• Children 10 and older can also learn.
• Transportation to the climbing site is usually included.
• You’ll start off with easily approachable ascents on a flat staging area with “ledges” or “stairs”.
• You’ll learn how to belay – the skill of securing a rope.
• Communicate with and research your outfitter to be sure they are qualified with the proper certifications.

The goal of the day is just getting out there, learning a new skill that pushes your body and having fun in a beautiful place.

“It’s so exciting when I see people get passionate and transfer that passion to another climber,” Hueniken says. “It’s a beautiful sport.”

There are many local outfitters to take you to some of Gadd and Hueniken’s favourite climbs. Here’s a partial list of some around Banff and Canmore.

• Ridgeline Guiding Services
• Banff Alpine Guides
• Alpine Air Adventures
• Rockies Ice and Alpine Specialists
• Cloud Nine Guides
• Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
• PeakSTRATEGEM