The Made-in-Alberta Guide to Modern Western Wear

Western wear is having a major moment right now. And ​Alberta – especially ​Calgary ​– ​might be the perfect place to inject some denim, fringe and leather into your wardrobe.

This fashion moment must tip its Stetson hat to Calgarians of the 1920s, who loved the version of the Old West that the Calgary Stampede played into. But the recent explosion of love for the western look is even more influenced by TikTok than horse tack.

Defining western fashion in Alberta

The local version of western wear today combines hard-wearing, cowboy-approved pieces with versatile items like denim vests and cut-off jeans.

“In Calgary, you have your actual cowboys​ ​and people who actually work on farms. And then you have your city cowgirl,” says Heather Jansen, manager of secondhand boutique Change is Good. “And I feel like we're seeing a lot of different takes on (the style).”

Micro-trends like “coastal cowgirl” (airy dresses in neutral tones paired with cowboy hats) and “Gothic cowgirl” (lots of fringe, lace and leather—all in black) are expanding the definition of western fashion, Jansen says.

She’s noticed the Stampede is even starting to earn the nickname “Calgary’s Coachella.” It’s a reference to the flood of major concerts during the 10-day rodeo event combined with how the Stampede influences local fashion.

The western look can be more traditional (think denim, plaid and Heartland). But it can also be a subtler twist on someone’s personal style, says Crystal McKenzie, a celebrity stylist and buyer for TV and film costume departments.

“And even if people don't want to take it, as far as wearing a cowboy hat, a western shirt, and Wranglers, they can just even wear a pair of boots with a cute summer dress,” McKenzie says. McKenzie has dressed countless celebs and was the lead buyer for Pedro Pascal when The Last of Us shot in Alberta. “It doesn't have to be 100% country. It's just, like, a vibe.”

Nearly every local shop seems to have a western capsule collection in the month leading up to the Calgary Stampede, she noted.

She says there are lots of materials that can help create those western vibes: denim, leather, suede, fringe, sequins and rhinestones (Shania Twain would be proud), lace and cotton eyelet.

Finding the perfect cowboy boots

If there’s one way to instantly inject western charm into an outfit, it’s the boots. “They don't have to be real,” says McKenzie, referring to the sturdy leather worn on the ranch.

“Although I do definitely recommend Alberta Boot because they make a fantastic boot in any colour and shape you can imagine.”

Don’t have time to break in new boots? McKenzie recommends finding a previously loved pair at a local consignment shop. She says she’s been wearing her secondhand Alberta Boots for years.

Jansen says local vintage buyers and consignment shops spend all year collecting cowboy boots and other western treasures. Then, they release them onto shop shelves and at western vintage markets in Calgary in the weeks leading up to the Stampede.

Where to find authentic cowboy hats and aesthetic alternatives

When it comes to cowboy hats, it’s hard to beat one from local hatmakers, Smithbilt Hats. The company has been making hats for more than 100 years. They invented the iconic white cowboy hat traditionally gifted to special visitors, including the Prince and Princess of Wales.

McKenzie suggests having a custom hat made at Smithbilt if you can swing it. “It's really a one-on-one experience and something that you're going to remember forever,” she says. Or, choose one of their beautiful hats right off the hat rack.

For a twist on the traditional cowboy hat, check out local online hat boutique Vagar. The hand-embellished, brimmed felt hats lean a little more boho or prairie core than full cowgirl.

Another fun take is to don a trucker hat that winks at cowboy culture from Cody & Sioux, McKenzie says. The modern western boutique is bursting with western wear. They stock some cheeky options, like their “Cowboys Don’t Cry” cap, plus a selection of fringe skirts, graphic tees, tiered dresses, collared shirts​ and boots.

Western wear worth the investment

McKenzie loves high-quality accessories that will stand the test of time.

“There's a lot of pieces that are just for fashion and for fun, but I like things that are ​going to ​last forever,” says McKenzie.

She recommends a real leather belt, like the ones from Lammle’s Western Wear, an Alberta staple, or Irvine’s Tack and Western Wear, both spots where buyers for Heartland regularly shop for the cast. Or go the custom route​ ​and have a gorgeous tooled leather belt handmade by Chart Sawadee at Crossroads Market.

To top off a look, a denim jacket always gets the job done. But a Pendleton blanket coat might be the ultimate outer layer, especially in the colder months, says McKenzie.

Stephanie Eagletail, a Cree/Dene designer, creates luxurious runway pieces meshing her heritage with modern trends. Local designer Clare Garino has been making custom Pendleton coats for 18 years. Her shop can be found at Crossroads Market and she can custom-make a coat in 3​-​4 weeks.

Reimagining bolo ties, bandanas and beadwork

“I love a bolo tie,” says McKenzie. “And there's so many different kinds out there.”

While traditionally, a bolo tie is worn under a collar, McKenzie is seeing them worn like necklaces, paired casually with a tank top, jean shorts and boots.

For a more classic look, Alberta Boot stocks a gold-coloured bronco rider bolo. And for more whimsy, check out Meghan MacWhirter’s pickle jar and cowboy boot bolos.

McKenzie suggests a contemporary take on bandanas, too. Instead of the bright, starched cotton squares found at dollar stores, go for a soft, narrow bandana tied neatly around the neck in a neutral tone. McKenzie raves about the Bandita from Judy Fedora.

Look for beaded earrings and necklaces made by local Indigenous artists. Moonstone Creation stocks the work of many Treaty 7 artists in their Inglewood shop. And during the Calgary Stampede, visit the Elbow River Camp on the Stampede grounds to buy directly from Indigenous artists.

Western outfit ideas from a celebrity stylist

Ultimately, McKenzie suggests visiting a combination of vintage and secondhand shops, local boutiques, and industry suppliers to find the perfect pieces for your western wardrobe.

Here’s some western inspiration from McKenzie to help find your own personal take on the trend:

• A t-shirt dress and denim jacket with a bolo or neck tie and cowboy boots
• A vintage-look graphic tee, bootcut denim shorts, a Brixton Cohen hat and metallic cowboy boots
• A black lace dress, metallic boots and a thin silk bandanna around the neck with denim jacket
• A corset top paired with an open denim shirt, black fringe pleather pants and rhinestone cowboy boots
• A pink sequin tank, sequin bootcut pants with a denim vest and white cowboy boots

“The key here is to make it your own, try new things and wait for the compliments to roll in,” she says.