You Need to Visit Skoki Lodge in the Backcountry of Banff This Winter

Sometimes you can’t control the voice in your head. Like when you’re ski-touring across a frozen lake, approaching a snowfall-obscured route named Deception Pass and somebody calls out, “Don’t worry. It’s not as far as it looks.” If that were true, that little voice says, why is it named Deception Pass?

But sometimes that little voice is wrong. In this case, it wasn’t as far as it looked. And it came with a bonus. Deception Pass is the summit on the route to Skoki Lodge in Banff National Park. This means that after reaching the pass, it’s all downhill from there. And you’re that much closer to reaching Skoki Lodge and its legendary charcuterie that awaits.

You'll earn this snack

Charcuterie is an unexpected motivator while in the rugged backcountry of the Canadian Rockies in the middle of winter, but it highlights an odd thing about Skoki Lodge. Despite the lodge’s location, its ruggedness and its history as a crucial link in the development of ski culture in Canada, previous guests are quick to gush about the food. When a local hears you’re planning a trip, their reaction is some version of this: “You’re going to Skoki? Oh my God, the food is so good.”

And it is. And that food is a good motivator on the 12-km (7.5-mi) ski to the lodge from Lake Louise Ski Resort. The lodge is accessible in winter only on skis or snowshoes (you should be moderately fit to make the trip). And if you plan your day right, you’ll arrive just at teatime.

It's like a much-needed warm hug in winter

Here are the facts about Skoki Lodge: It’s a National Historic Site inside Banff National Park. It opened in 1931 as an accommodation for skiers when the sport was nascent in Canada. It’s a log cabin and has changed little since. An addition was added in 1936. The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge (Prince William and Kate Middleton) spent their honeymoon here. It’s off the grid: No electricity. No plumbing. No Wi-Fi.

Here’s what the facts don’t tell you: It might be the coziest place you’ll ever visit. Surrounded by snowy mountains and frozen lakes, it’s warmed by wood-burning stoves, welcoming staff and features a communal room filled with books, blankets and board games. And the smells wafting in from the kitchen are like a warm hug.

Come night, all is right with the world

During the day, some people head out to explore the nearby trails. Some use cross-country skis. Others go ski touring to try to catch the untouched powder on nearby slopes. Others just sit around in their slippers playing Bridge and waiting for the next meal.

For many, the highlight of the day is when evening comes. It gets dark early, so the candles and lamps are lit and placed on the communal table while everyone gathers for the final meal of the day. Inside, warm and cozy, feeling fresh after a day outdoors in the mountain air, the food and wine taste especially delicious.

This is when that uncontrollable voice in your head may come back but with a different message this time. “This,” it might say, “is all right.”