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The Canadian Rockies of southern Alberta are full of secrets that only locals can reveal. They talk about it in shouted whispers.
They want you to know how incredible their favourite snowshoeing trails are, and what a perfect moment it is to step out of your winter glamping cabin to see a frozen lake surrounded by mountains. Yet, they don’t want to give away every secret. Here’s how to have fun in the Southern Rockies this winter, even if you’re a rookie.
Getting to know Castle Provincial Park is the key to falling in love with this area in winter. It’s got excellent downhill skiing and snowboarding at Castle Mountain Resort and, in the wider park beyond, groomed cross-country skiing trails, excellent beginner and backcountry snowshoeing and plenty of space for fat biking. That’s just scratching the surface. Ice-fishing and ice-climbing, winter camping and wildlife photography abound.
If you’re a three-season cyclist, fat biking could just get you started on a year-round love of cycling. Karey Watanabe of Sweet Riders leads fat bike tours in Castle Provincial Park, and she knows where all the gems are around here. Trails at Syncline Trail and Beaver Mines Lake Campground are fat-bike-friendly, with fun, gentle hills and pretty winter views — which is kind of the point of fat biking.
“It’s relaxed mode,” Watanabe says, contrasting it to the intense downhills of mountain biking. “Take in the scenery, ride your bike. You’re not huffing and puffing — it’s kind of a surfing feel on a bike.”
Heather Davis operates Uplift Adventures, guiding people in Castle, the Crowsnest Pass and beyond. For her, Castle Provincial Park is one of the best places around. “This place is beautiful, and people don’t even know about it. It just blows my mind,” she says.
Among her offerings, Davis leads snowshoeing day trips in the Crowsnest Pass that are particularly appealing because they’re combined with brunch. Snowshoeing is a sport that’s approachable and rewarding for novices, Davis says, but more advanced snowshoers can tackle summiting mountains, too.
An hour south of Castle is Waterton Lakes National Park. In winter, the townsite becomes a serene escape where you’re likely to be outnumbered by mule deer and Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. For experienced adventurers, there’s loads of backcountry snowshoeing and ice climbing, not to mention all the cross-country skiing, hiking and fat-biking opportunities.
Winter novices may be content to walk through town to find the half-frozen Cameron Falls. Then it’s a wander along the lakeshore, where the water is so still it mirrors the surrounding mountains.
Keith Robinson runs Dark Sky Guides in Waterton with his brothers. The brothers grew up in the area, and they’re hoping their business will help more travellers discover what’s up in Waterton in winter. Robinson suggests the Kootenai Brown Trail for anyone who wants to “get away from the townsite and human civilization — and feel like they're literally in the middle of nowhere.”
It’s easy to straight-up forget about the stars while living in the city.
Join the Robinson brothers and venture a little way out of town to watch the last bit of sunlight disappear behind the mountains. Despite the chill of the air, you’ll want to stand out there looking up at the stars for hours. End your night back in your hotel room with a jacuzzi soak to remind you that getting cozy in winter is all the better after spending the day outdoors.
